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Growth factors: what are they and why are they being used for

The future never gets old. This is the claim of the latest Em’age line launched by Philip Martin’s. A line born from a branch of cosmetic science called Cosgenetics, that combines Genetics and the latest discoveries in the medical field. The growth factors, included in Philip Martin’s Em’age line, stimulate the proliferation of keratinocytes. The tests reveal that in four days only they multiply from 2.000 to 11.000. The Institute found another important outcome: injuries heal thanks to this system.

Em’age is the watershed between the past and the future: the result of research is now tangible in a line of products which have a regenerating action. In a live broadcast that took place last Wednesday on Philip Martin's Facebook page (you can find the record at this link, the Sales Director Valentino Meneghini interviewed Dr. Claudio Toniolo - plastic surgeon, aesthetic doctor and surgical techniques and cosmetics researcher.

The interview with Dr. Toniolo

“I admire Dr. Toniolo – says Meneghini - because doctors have many tools to remove imperfections, they have a large number of weapons to achieve beauty objectives. In the cosmetics field we dream of having the outcomes these tools have, so when I met Dr. Toniolo I was amazed because he confessed his option to choose less invasive beauty solutions". Philip Martin’s created the Em’age line for face, neck, neckline and eyes with Dr. Toniolo. Philip Martin's was initially looking for adjuvant active ingredients, but we understood growth factors were the best choice.

Growth factors

Growth factors, Dr. Toniolo explained, were discovered twenty years ago in the laboratory from the medical need to make cells grow. Previously, vitamins and mineral salts were used for that, with little noticeable effect. Processing blood serum, that is the discovery that led to identifying growth factors, magically made cells multiply. This is how it turned out that there are growth factors in blood serum. As the years went by, thanks to the continuous research, growth factors have become more and more influential in the medical field. Now is the time they reveal their importance in cosmetics.

What are the growth factors?

Growth factors are very small proteins: amino acid sequences, which come together, no more than 50 at a time. Protein fragments are used to proliferate, to differentiate and stimulate the cell to produce certain substances: in the field of cosmetics they are used to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin. Erythropotein is also a growth factor: Pantani used it to increase red blood cells. With the passing of time, growth factors production slow down. In the young period of life, they are present in a large number; later some of those die, another part falls asleep: this is how cellular activity slows down. However, as soon as growth factors are applied, the cells wake up and start working again. In the medical field, growth factors have become essential to improve the aesthetics of scars: fibroblasts migrate to the wound area and heal it.

How to convey growth factors in the dermis

The growth factors used by Philip Martin’s, Dr. Toniolo explained, are very small and have low molecular weight. The secret of their functioning is in the diameter that is smaller than the pores of the dermis. Enclosed in microspheres, measured in nanometers, they cross the pores and reach the vascular system. They are specific keys for any cell, which, thanks to a polar attraction, are received by the cytoplasm and pass into DNA.

What are the imperfections that are "attacked"?

By using Em’age, Dr. Toniolo argues, deep wrinkles will improve by 60% and, in the case of Filler, the effects will be prolonged by 8 months. The facelift and botox-like effect, on the other hand, improve small wrinkles and plump the entire skin face. The improvement and the resumption of elasticity are immediately noticeable.

Which age is the right one to start using growth factors?

The optimal age is from 30 onwards as a prevention, using the products once a day. As the age increases, applications must increase to at least twice a day. Growth factors start acting after a quarter of an hour after application.

How to amplify the effects of growth factors?

Thermophoresis, made with the TM32 machine, accelerates regeneration. The treatment in the cabin with Em’age immediately gives the desired effects, right from the first appointment. Thanks to soothing and anti-inflammatory active ingredients, after the treatment the skin texture improves, enhancing beauty.


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